Select a spacious cage.,
Place the cage in a frequently traveled room.,
Opt for an aviary, if you have the space.,
Place different types of perches in cage.,
Include parrotlet-friendly toys.,
Clean the cage regularly.,
Feed your parrotlet fresh vegetables daily.,
Supplement their diet with fruit.,
Feed your parrotlet a high-quality bird food mix.,
Don’t give your parrotlet foods that aren’t good for it.,
Place the food in dishes.,
Feed your parrotlet about 12% of its body weight at each meal.The Pacific parrotlet weighs about 33g so you’ll want to feed it about 4g of food at each meal.,
Use a bottle to give water to your bird.,
Watch out for signs of illness.,
Watch for particularly troubling signs.,
Keep regular vet appointments.,
Make sure to play with your parrotlet daily.,
Name your parrotlet and teach it the name.,
Reward the bird when they do something you want.,
Identify wanted behaviors with a clicker.,
Label the behavior.,
Potty train your bird.,
Invest in a parrotlet training program.
Pacific parrotlets are very active and need plenty of room to fly around. A cage measuring 18” x 18” x 18” is the minimum for one bird. For more than one, you’ll need to get even larger cages (28” x 24” x 36” for two birds). The cage should have around 3/8-1/2 inch bar space (the spaces between the bars), so that the parrotlet can’t get out unattended., You’ll want to make sure one side is against the wall, though, so the parrotlet can retreat away from a busy room when it wants. You’ll want to keep in mind the following when placing the cage:Don’t put the cage in the kitchen as cooking fumes and smoke are deadly for parrotlets.
Make sure the cage isn’t in direct sunlight.
Make sure the room temperature is no more than 80 degrees.
, Aviaries can be much larger cages, and will provide your parrotlets with even more room than the ordinary cage. Some are even 5-6 feet wide!They are great, especially if you plan on keeping more than one bird. However, only one pair should be kept in a single cage or aviary., To avoid problems and sores on the feet of your parrotlets, provide them with at least three or four different kinds and sizes of perches. You may have the traditional swinging perch, and then a branch-type perch, and a rope perch. There are all kinds of perches out there, you may have to try out several to see you’re your bird prefers. Keep in mind that variety is best for parrotlets., You’ll want a variety of toys, including shreddable toys, hard toys with bells (like those designed for cockatiels), and bird kabobs. Finding the right toys for your bird may require some trial and error, but nearly all parrotlets love toys they can tear apart. Make sure you provide a variety, and switch out the toys to keep the parrotlets entertained.Avoid toys with hazards such as movable parts, wire, and string., The liners should be replaced daily, and food and water dishes should be washed thoroughly daily. The cage should be cleaned thoroughly (wiping down cage bars, cleaning perches and toys, and any other accessories, etc.) at least once a month. Sometimes you’ll need to clean the cage more often than that, depending on whether you have multiple birds and the habits of your particular bird. When using cleaning supplies, make sure to move the parrotlet first, as the fumes can be dangerous to the bird., This can include carrots, peas, broccoli, and squash, among others. You don’t need to cook the vegetables, but if you use frozen, just make sure they’re thawed properly. Remove any leftovers after about a day.Safe veggies include: asparagus, all bean varieties, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, cauliflower, corn on the cob, cucumbers, peeled kiwi, pea pods, red leaf lettuce, cooked sweet potatoes, and zucchini.
Vegetables to avoid include spinach and other vegetables with Oxalic acid (such as beets and peppers), avocados, and onions., This can include grapes, apples, and berries. Just as with the vegetables, if the fruits aren’t eaten within a day, you’ll want to remove them from the cage. You might want to cut up fruit for your parrotlet, so they can handle it better.Safe fruits include: apples without core, bananas, blueberries, cantaloupe, pitted cherries, grapes, guava, mango, nectarines, oranges, papaya, pitted peaches, pears without the core, plums, pomegranates, prunes, raisins, raspberries, and strawberries.
Fruits to avoid include: grapefruit, starfruit, and tomatoes
, This should be pellet-based rather than seed-based. You can even buy food mixes that are specifically formulated for parrotlets.No matter how high quality the food, it is really important not to rely on seeds as the primary food for your parrotlet. Fruits and vegetables are necessary, so don’t skip on the variety the parrotlets need for a healthy diet.Your parrotlet’s diet should consist of about half formulated food such as pellets and half other foods such as fruits, seeds, and vegetables., These include chocolate, fried foods, avocado, and sugar. Chocolate and coffee are detrimental to a bird’s health because of the caffeine and other toxic ingredients.Other foods to avoid include the following:Raw peanuts
Herbs and spices
, You’ll want something sturdy that the parrotlets won’t easily break with their beaks (thick glass is good). Parrotlets are often used to food at the bottom of the cage, so avoid the type that attaches to the cage.Make sure the it doesn’t have a cover or hood, as many parrotlets won’t put their head in that kind of dish., However, as many parrots self-regulate, you can keep more food than that in there, especially of the pellet variety. You’ll want to clean out excess perishable food at least once a day., You’ll want to refresh the water once or twice a day. You might even want to use bottled–but not distilled–water, as some birds like the taste. A water bottle is preferable to a dish, as birds tend to develop more infections when they use a water dish, even if it’s regularly cleaned., Sometimes these symptoms can be easily missed, so it is necessary to monitor your bird’s health closely. Often, when birds die suddenly, it’s because the owner thought the bird looked fine, when the bird may have been sick for a while. You’ll want to watch for the following symptoms:Broken or chewed feathers
Changes in eating habits
Sores (on feet, for example)
Flaky beak or skin
Swelling or redness around eyes.
Feather loss around eyes.
Leaning to one side
, While many of the signs listed above do not warrant emergency care, there are some symptoms that do require immediate care. With parrotlets it can be essential to see an emergency vet quickly if your parrotlet has any of the following symptoms:Significant changes in bowel movements
Significant changes in eating habits (Excessive or decreased)
Behavior or personality changes
Being too quiet
Significant changes in breathing (rasping, couching, wheezing, etc.)
Significant change in weight
Nasal, mouth, or eye discharge
, This should be at least once yearly. Once the parrotlet reaches 10 years it might be good to start having checkups twice a year. You should also take your parrotlet to the vet anytime there are significant changes in behavior., This will help the parrot keep from getting territorial and nippy. You want the parrotlet to feel like part of the flock, so make sure to interact with the bird frequently. This is the basis of being able to train the bird. If you can’t handle the bird, you will have trouble training it., Parrots actually give their young names–or unique chirp sequences–in the wild, and so you should be able to name your parrot with repetition.You can start with being affectionate with the bird and assigning a phrase to that behavior such as “I love you.” Once the bird has made the connection between the word and phrase, you can connect its name by saying, “I love you, Polly.” The bird will soon learn its name as the name gets attached to more commands., Pick a treat that you rarely give them but know they love.Nuts and seeds are good training treats, as they’re small, yummy for the parrotlet, and not very messy. Be careful not to use a reward immediately after an unwanted behavior, as you might accidentally reinforce that behavior., A clicker is often used in dog training, and can also be effective in parrotlet training, as it allows you to identify quickly the exact moment the parrotlet does what you want. To get the parrotlet to associate the click with treats, you’ll want to start with simply clicking and treating, until the parrotlet comes to expect treats with each click., Once you’ve identified a specific behavior with a click and a treat, you’ll want to label the behavior with a word or phrase. Pick short words and phrases for best results, such as “sit” or “touch.” Make sure you practice doing this, until the bird connects the behavior with the word. Then you say the word and wait for bird to do the behavior before treating., You’ll need to watch your bird for signs of a pattern in their behavior. Then you’ll need to label the behavior with a phrase such as “good potty” so the parrot starts to associate the behavior with a word or phrase. And you’ll need to reward the bird initially whenever the bird defecates, so they’ll start to be able to control their bowel movements. Once they’ve got this down, you’ll want to give the command on specific occasions or in specific areas, and then reward them for doing as you’ve asked. Finally, you’ll introduce “no” for when you don’t want them to defecate. You may even need to hold their tail down so they get the idea., If you’re struggling with training, or you have a bird that’s too nippy, you may want to invest in a training program. You’ll want to make sure the program has good ratings on the Better Business Bureau website. You may want to check with your vet and see if they have any recommendations for specific trainers or training tips.